Howdy. I suppose you thought I would never get around to this eh? Well yes it has taken a while but now here it is. While I am basically finished with the bridge, because I have to make one more large one. I have not yet totally installed this one yet. So for now let us just enjoy making it.
I highly recommend getting a book on truss bridges and using that for your measurements.
Mine is 33 inches long. which makes it 132 feet in O scale. That's a nice size for one and close to the limit for a wooden one if my research is right. The limit as far as I know is 150 feet for a wooden truss bridge.
AND DON'T FORGET TO CLICK ON THE PICTURE FOR A LARGER VERSION OF THEM. Also keep in mind that the so called new and improved internet explorer 7 will NOT let you see some of the picture full sized. That feature no longer exists. For those still using IE 6 just click the resize button on the lower left. Or just right click the pics and download them. :)
So first off we have to make space for it and so I cut out the old area. A friend of mine has a reciprocating saw that he used on it to cut through the plywood. As easy as butter.
Next I glued two pieces of wood 2 feet long together and laid them out to get the length. Then I cut them to the size I needed. These will be the main support beams.
I almost always try to make a full size template of any structure I make. It helps me remove mistakes ahead of time. Easier to erase then to unglue. :)
Next I cut out the end supports for the main beams. As I already know the lengths, this is made all the easier.
I cut out the small triangle pieces I will need in a moment.
Next I lay the pieces on the blueprint. They are all cut to size using the blueprint.
In order to ensure the beams are spaced correctly, I used the cross beams themselves as supports to keep the wood the right distance apart. I glued on the triangles just perfectly. Then using the beams again, I was able to glue the cross members "EXACTLY" in the center of the triangles.
Next I glued it all together. I used my drill bit case as a square because it fit in the space. I glued the triangles to the main beam. I also put on a top beam at this time as well. With the sides on it was easy to find the exact length of the top beam and to cut it properly.
Next I put on cross beams on one side of the main beam.
Then I attached the sides together.
I cut out some more crossbeam and attached them all with glue.
Here is what we have so far.
Next I cut out about 100 ties. Then I used a piece of flextrack so I could align the underrail beams with the track on the flex track. I then glued a couple of ties on and let it dry. After this I did the same thing on the opposite end. Once it was all dry I knew it would all be inline, and so finished gluing all of the ties in place.
Some pictures so far.
Next I drilled a couple of holes. Spiked the end of the rail down and then continued to drill tiny tiny holes [2 per tie was about 400 or so holes] for the spikes. The spikes might have split the wood. I don't like taking that chance. And if you are careful you can use the flex shaft on your dremel as I did. I used a slow speed. and I wrapped scotch tape around the drill bit to make it fit the dremel.
I used the rail itself to help me line up the holes. Make sure you go straight down. Do NOT go in on an angle.
Next I put in the spikes for the first rail. Make sure that you press straight down. If you push the spike on an angle it will bend the rail. Push straight down and use the top lip ONLY of the spike to hold the rail.Just like the real ones do. If you miss a few don't worry about it. So long as most of them grab then you will be ok.
Next I line up the second rail using my homemade track gauges [you can find how I made them by clicking here] and tack it down with crazy glue every 10 or so ties. I clamp it in place and wait a few minutes. Then using the rail as a guide once again, I drill the holes and lay the spikes.
After this I drilled holes in the top and bottoms of the bridge to add the rods or wire supports. I used steel rods [used in florist arrangements] because they just seem to look better.
After they are carefully inserted, I cut them to length.
I now add the rest of the beams under the ties. I glued and clamped them to ensure straightness.
I made the guard rails on the ties by cutting a piece of wood lengthwise [I forgot to get the right size so I had to make my own] and then cutting them about 20 feet long [about 5 inches]. I lined them up to the nearest tie so as to make them look right. They were cut as close to the middle of the tie as possible. This way they over lapped the tie so that I was able to add the nut bolt washer later and still make it look 'right'.
So after everything dried for a day or two, I painted the whole thing. I started with "spice brown" by ceramcoat. I put in about a rounded teaspoon of spice brown. I added a lot of water, about 3 tablespoons, and just a drop or two of black. I mixed it all together and proceeded to paint the ties and their beams.
I added a couple more drops of black and then painted the rest of the bridge.
In order to get the "blackened" look I put some black on my brush and wiped most of it off on the newspaper. This is called "dry brushing". I then added some of this to the tops of the cross beams and then rubbed it in with my fingers. I repeated adding paint and rubbing it in until it looked right. I also added some to the ties. I put a lot less on the ties.
When I painted the ties all the holes I made in the guard rails were covered, I drilled very tiny holes in them. Anyhow, I recommend adding the holes after you paint. I had to go over it again with a pin.
After redoing all the holes I placed the 'nut, bolt and washer' pieces into the guard rails. One per tie per side. Also because I was careful to cut their lengths according to the ties themselves. Where they met I was able to add two 'nut, bolt and washer' parts.
So I leave you with a some parting shots. Until I get the other bridge done, this is it for now.
I hope you enjoyed this. :)
So until next time...... God bless you and have fun. :)
