Stub Switches

Ok then let's get down to it.

For myself I do not find that turnouts are all that hard to do. Maybe because

I actually enjoy it, I don't know. Anyhow, I hope with this tutorial that I can

show you also just how easy it is to make them.

Stub switches [turnouts] are not that hard really. Let's look at a drawing I

made first of all.

 This shows some of the steps I did in making a couple of the stub switches.

I am going to start by showing you steps that are common to all the stub

switches I am making, then I will show you how to make them four different

ways. So if this seems to be starting in the middles it is because I am putting

at the front of this article, things that are common to all four. Hopefully this

will make it easier to find later should you need it. Understand? Good, then

let's proceed. :)

First thing I did was wire up the approach track.

That's the three inches of track that replaces the points on regular switches.

On a stub switch these are the pieces of track that move.

I glue the track to a wooden bar that moves between two longer bars of

wood. I make sure it moves freely by sanding down the moving bar of

wood a tiny bit.

In photo one and two I apply solder to the rail. 

In photo three and four you can see the wooden bar that moves the

rails better here.

In photo five I solder the wire to the rail.

Photo six shows the wire being tightened in the hole.

Photo seven shows me testing for conductivity. 

I put one lead on the wire [just below the rail] and the other lead on 

the rail itself. I do this NOW before I have ballast etc or anything else 

on the rails. Better to find out now if it works then to have to rip it all

up later if it doesn't.

I use a simple meter. This one tests ac, dc and ohms. Here I test conductivity

by testing the ohms. or 'resistance'. 

In photo eight you see the needle does not move. 

This means that there is no connection. In photo nine the needle

moves up all the way. 

This means I have a full connection.

Photo ten shows both rails done.

Next I add some means of moving the wooden bar that moves the rails.

Remember to NOT glue the rails for about three inches. If you glue them,

they won't move. Obviously I know, but we do forget so this is just a

reminder.

Place the ground throw [I used an O scale ground throw] on the wooden

pieces and mark the holes with a drill bit. 

Next, place the rails in the center position between the two rails and with the

ground throws arm straight up, mark the position of the peg and drill a hole

for the peg. Now test the throw.

Photos eleven through to seventeen. Instaling a ground throw.

You will see that the rails seem to be rather strongly bent. Don't worry about

it, they will be fine.

Make sure that the wooden bar moves freely and does not bind at all. If it

does, sand down the wooden bar [yes you have to remove the rails but they

are easy to reattach] and try again. Remember to sand the BOTTOM so that

you don't remove the top part that you can see.

I also put down a top and bottom piece to stop the bar from lifting up out of

the cavity made by the two long pieces of wood. You can also use these to

limit the travel of the wooden bar if you wish. I don't find I need it, but it can

be helpful.

Now push the throw over until it goes 'out' pointing to the main or straight

track or outer edge. Pick one.

Now line up a piece of rail and glue it down.

Make sure the outer rail does not touch the movable rail. 

There should be a very tiny space.

Enough to allow free movement but not so much space to see a large gap.

Now throw the ground throw bar the OTHER way and do the inner rail or

curved piece.

Glue it in place.

Now place two rails on the switch and line them up.

Cut the rails to length for now.

Wire up the two outer rails and test them.

This shows two of the rails cut to length and soldered. 

Of course you check for proper width using the method shown here. 

[May not show up properly in Internet explorer 7, better to use Firefox].

This will ensure that you NEVER have a derailment because of a frog. NEVER.

Speaking of frogs, let's make one, well kind of. :)

Start by filing down two rails.

Next, glue the rails in place,

then solder them.

Next we file out the openings, first one way,

then the other.

And there you have it, done.

Some other pics.

Just make sure that when you wire it up, that you attach wire to both pieces.

The astute reader will notice that there is nothing between the two pieces

of rail where the frog SHOULD be but isn't.

Yes some stub switches have been built this way. I tried it and sure enough

the thing works and works rather well too.

I have not had any problems with them myself. Just make it a bit tight and

then file the space you need. Also don't forget the guard rails which will

ensure a problem free switch.

Ok then that's one down, three to go.

STUB SWITCH TWO

Ok you already know how to add the throw bar and ground throw etc, so we

will stick to what is new.

Make a frog point like you did the last time.

Measure it,

file it and glue it down

and solder in place.

When you measure the other rails, add an inch to them.

We will make wing rails. 

You do this by simply bending the rail a bit to follow along the frog like

a [what I call useless] guard rail. I have never found them to be of any good

except to pull the flange on to the frog and pick at it to make it derail. So I

make mine wide enough to not be able to do that. I make sure the guard

rails on the outer rails work though. They pull the flange over so that the

wheels ALWAYS miss the frog and never derail.

Test the guard rail.

Then do the other one and test it as well.

After it is all glued and tested, add solder to the whole thing to tie it all

together. 

This time you will only have to wire the one rail as the solder in the

frog connects it all together.

File the openings back open again.

Both ways of course, :)

and test them again.

The finished product.

So now we have made a frogless stub switch and one with wing rails.